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Bueno ya he recibido respuesta de S.Schwing!!! Os lo pongo aqui para total trasparencia de la opreacion. !!!!

 

Es largo, pero os pido q cogais 5 minutos para leerlo todo y intentad comprender lo q vai a adquirir. No quiero sorpresa despues :(:(

 

JGG ya le he enviado un mail!!! Esperando respuesta!!! :o

 

Juan Carlos...Hi! Yes Robo is very happy with his TTDA! I would be happy

to make a batch for you in Spain. I have 2 black and a red tube prepared so

delivery time would be pretty quick. I may need to order a few more filter

elements though as I have 3 committed now. 2 weeks at the most to ship. I

build these in my spare time and the next few weekends I have some things to

do that will slow me up a little. Here is what I would do. For an order of

3 they would be $235 US apiece + $60 shipping to one address. Shipping is

$45 each so if I can consolodate a shipment to you it would save you money.

I generally handle all this through Paypal. My adr. is

seschwing@earthlink.net I would also need a list of the cars to be fitted

so I can include the small MAF adapter if required. Here's the specs again.

Let me know how you'd like to proceed!

 

Steve

 

TTDA Airbox construction details:

 

Tube: Non-Brittle Phenolic Microseam 7.51 ID x 8 inches long

Insulation: Fiber Tech 3/8" insulation with aluminum skin for reflective and

absorptive heat handling

Filter: K&N Inverted cone #RR-3003 w/polished cap, New with warranty card

Lamination: Carbon fiber or carbon/kevlar weave. Laminated with Epoxy then

Dupont clear coated.

Stainless Version: T-304 Brushed stainless wrap. 26

gauge

Endcaps: 3/8 inch ply with Black carbon lamination

Edging: Vinyl with aluminum reinforcement

Intakes: (2) Spun aluminum, 2.5" OD, or custom to your spec.

Clamp: Stainless

Cold Start Filter: Foam, slip on

 

"No Tools" disassembly for filter cleaning

Construction and color pictures here:

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_other_intak/

 

Price: $250 in your choice of Black Carbon (gloss or matte finish), Moro

Blue, Desert green or Red Carbon/Kevlar (Gloss only), OR brushed stainless

verion (T-304, 26 gauge, #4 brushed finish) . Color swatches here:

http://www.uscomposites.com/hybrids.html (note: colors darker when

epoxied)

Note: Since these are individually made, custom modifications can be

incorporated

 

Includes paypal and shipping within the continental US, Add $40 for shipping

to the UK, $15 To Canada.

Other quotes on request.

Includes filter sock for the cold start breather line

Does not include feed lines (see links below for sources)

 

Specify 180 OR 225. 180 version will include silicone adapter sleeve.

 

First Dyno reviews from Phill in the UK at a recent AMD "Rolling Road" day:

 

After: Hi Steve, first I hope that you and your family and friends are safe

and sound after the terrible storms .

We had a rolling road shoot out at AMD today as you said the car is getting

better and better the BHP was 272 and the torque 297lbs-ft , a lot of people

were very inpressed and we had a hot day 30c , so many thanks again and

might be some new orders on the way ?

Best reguards,

Phill

 

Before: Hi Steve, my numbers before were 264 bhp 291 lbsft also fitted FMIC

after these , but the really good part was I was run later in the day when

it was hotter the early runners were not bad but the figures started

dropping off as the day went on but not mine !!

Cheers mate,

Phill

 

Performance Testimonial from Carlos in Puerto Rico:

1/4 ET ---- 14.057

1/4 MPH --- 94.56

 

I'm sure that my car run in the 13's because when I did the run the gas tank

was full(93 octane), that means too much weight, and my DV fluttering a bit.

The TTDA make a huge difference. Before the TTDA I did 14.6. Thanks Steve

for a great product. Yess...

 

Late 02 TT225 Quattro Lake Silver Coupe...

Mods for now are: APR 93Octane Chip, ECS Race N75, Hyperboost Adjustable DV,

SAMCO Intake Hose and Upper Turbo Hoses, O.CT FMIC, TTSchwing TTDA, Forge

Super High Flow Exhaust,

 

Set-up for OEM 225 car :

 

You won't be able to take full advantage of the design without having an

FMIC and running feeds into the free'd up grill area, but you will see

advantages in less heat soak, and a less restrictive intake. You may remove

the plastic MAF vanes with this filter as it appears to supply a very clean

flow of air to the MAF element. I currently have my vanes out. This will

make a big difference (See the Autospeed article on Negative Boost

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0629 ) The filter end will

fit directly on the MAF housing. Lubricate a little as it is a tight

squeeze. The filter is sized so that no other support should be necessary.

It will nestle right into the OEM airbox area. Run a short hose to the

fender opening from the top flange. Feed through 6-8 inches or so. Route

the bottom into the area behind the headlight. This will at least get you a

little fresh air in there. I use 2.5 inch neoprene hose. Expensive, but

better and more flexible than most. This can be sourced in bulk at

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com (10 ft lengths only) ,

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com (6 foot lengths), or by the foot at

http://www.aircraftspruce.com (Best deal $42 for 10 feet) You'll need 6

feet for a full feed system, 3 feet for the quick install method.

 

 

FMIC (or 180) car:

 

This is the best set-up but requires cutting a little metal if you want to

get the dual pressure feeds up to the box. If you can settle for one

pressure feed, no cuts are necessary. See Pic here:

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...ocut_feeds.html

. Here's Ryans write-up on this:

http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/963116.phtml My Fotki pics show all

these pretty clearly, so I won't go into a lot of detail.

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_other_intak/ More feed detail

in this album:

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...eding_the_ttda/ One

hose up the fender liner side, and one up under the headlight. You can get

the hose through here with the front end on. You may have to remove the

battery box depending on how dexterous you are! Both end in some sort of

collector in the lower grill. Mines a home-made, but commercial inlets are

available.

 

Note on early 2001 cars and earlier with Xenons: The Xenon ballasts on

earlier cars are attached to the chassis under the lights, rather than on

the actual light fixtures themselves. Because of this it may be impossible

to route the headlight hose without removing the front end and headlight.

The ballast needs to be relocated to allow for hose clearance.

 

Install album of various pics from TTDA users:

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_..._installs_from/

 

 

Additional Install Notes:

 

Depending on how you intend to install the air box, here are some tips,

links and notes to help you along:

 

Stock 225 or 180 (easy install method):

 

1) remove the stock box

2) lubricate the filter flange and clamp on to the MAF. Orientation of the

box should be with the seam down and the intake ports at about a 60 degree

angle

3) Hose routing can be simple but you won't get the Ram air effect. You

will get better flow and heat control though. Jeff Bipes installed his this

way and pics and details were posted here:

http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/887991.phtml

He used a relatively thick hose that does not look too flexible. I would

highly recommend going with the high quality Neoprene as seen in my

installs. Very flexible and should eliminate trimming sheet metal at the

snorkle exit area.

This stuff can be sourced at http://www.pegasusautoracing.com 2 1/2 inch

part # 3620-2.50-6 foot for$34. Or http://www.aircraftspruce.com PN

#05-29810 $4.10/ft. 6 feet will let you do even the more involved install

later if you choose and it can be screwed together to lengthen cut pieces.

4) Route 1 hose through the snorkle hole to get some fresh air, and tuck the

other down behind the headlight.

5) Place the black foam sock over the cold air inlet tube you removed from

the airbox side and zip tie out of the way.

 

225, 180 or VW with front feeds:

 

1) Mount as above (180 or VW applications will have a silicone hose spacer

in the filter end to match up to the 2 3/4 inch MAF)

2) Most of the pics for this have been pretty well documented here:

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...shack_3_mark_2/

The only tricky part is cutting a little sheet metal to the left of the

fender liner screw hole as seen here:

http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/cai_and_...2/dscf0145.html

This is easily done with tin snips and then dressed up a bit with a dremel

or die grinder. Cut until you can fit the hose in there without interfering

with the fender liner when re-installed.

The feed horns are simple parts available at Home Depot. The angle bracket

shown holding the assembly to the car is from the garage door dept. (Track

bracket). It's slotted and sized perfectly for this. There's even a

threaded stud on the car to mount it too! You can also use the stock IC

Bracket that used to mount there for support. Commercial air inlet ducts

probably will not work here as there is VERY little room between the inlets

and where the hose has to go 90 degrees to head up to the box. None will fit

according to my measurements.

 

Cleaning

 

I've noticed that if you use front mounted feeds, a lot of stuff is sucked

up into the box and the inverted part of the cone gets dirty fast. I'd

clean every 3,000 miles under these circumstances.

 

Non force fed, you're probably good for 10-15K or so. K&N's actually work a

little better with some miles on them

 

To remove filter, take the box out of the car, remove the vinyl edging from

the filter side and the whole endcap with filter attached can be removed.

Follow the K&N procedures fro cleaning, Lightly oil, and re-assemble.

 

That's pretty much it! Go out and drive and let me know what you think.

The car will need a little time to adapt to the different flow

characteristics. The box is also quiet. You may consider removing the

plastic vanes in the MAF housing also as this is a big restriction in the

inlet system. Read this article to find out more:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0629

 

Let me know how they work for you! Questions, I can be reached most anytime

at (252) 327-7737

----- Original Message -----

From: "jc de fusco" <quitproquo1@hotmail.com>

To: <ssheron@earthlink.net>

Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 11:49 AM

Subject: TTDA

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Ok!!! gracias a todos!!! solo me faltan q me confirme PSQ el tono de su TTDA, si brillante o mate.

 

JGG!!! no hay problema!!!! tambien lo he puesto en la lista!!! :D:)

 

Por cierto, usando este convertidor de divisas, me sale q 235$ USD de envio, son 188.619 €.

http://www.xe.com/ucc/es/

 

Porfavor comprovadlo!!! Por lo q pone en el mail, si el lo manda a una solo direccion, el porte es de 45$USD . Si por el contrario ha de mandarlo a cada uno de nosotros el porte sube a 60$USD. ASI q si os parece bien, y si no tenies ninguna objecion q me lo mande a mi y yo me encargo de repartirlos a cada uno q lo haya pedido. A menos de q alguien quiera hacerlo , por mi ningun problema.

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Gracias PSQ!!!! acabo de enviar el mail con la actualizacion de los acabados. Ahora le toca a el dare respuesta sobre plazo de entrega. Le he comentado q ahora al ser mas cantidad de TTDA, a ver si se puesde ajustar un poquito mas con el precio. :):D A ver si hay suerte.!!!!

 

Con el tema pago, ....en cuanto me conteste hablamos al respecto. Os mantengo informados!!

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Ok. Me parece buena idea que te los mande todos a ti y luego tu nos los mandas, así es menos lío. También para simplificar las cosas lo que podemos hacer es hacerte todos una transferencia a tu cuenta por el importe final que él te diga (lo que nos toque pagar en total a cada uno) y así le pagas tu a él todos de golpe.

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Hola gente yo tambien estoy interesado en un TTDA para mi S3, pero acabado en rojo brillante, Lo ke pasa es ke no tengo claro lo de los acabados. hay alguna pagina para verlo. Yo he visto esa de los diferentes colores del Carbono, pero me refiero a ver la "caja" del TTDA.

 

Por ahora mi coche esta de serie, pero un futuro igual lo reprograma, lo compro ahora o me espero despues?

 

Un saludo

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Te aconsejo que pidas ahora el TTDA con el resto de gente para que te salga mas barato.. ademas si haces la repro con el filtro de aire nuevo .. los parametros se modificaran en base del flujo de aire que meta el TTDA...

 

Creo que es mejor asi...

 

Para que veas los colores en terminados del TTDA esta es una foto que encontre por ahi, espero te sirva ;)

 

Un saludo y animate !!!

 

Robo

 

red_black.jpg

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